"Moral panic" over babydoll dresses

Let's start with a definition: 

A babydoll is a short, sleeveless, loose-fitting nightgown or negligee, intended as nightwear for women. It sometimes has formed cups called a bralette for cleavage with an attached, loose-fitting skirt falling in length usually around the upper thigh. The garment is often trimmed with lace, ruffles, appliques, marabou, bows, and ribbons, optionally with spaghetti straps. Sometimes it is made of sheer or translucent fabric such as nylon or chiffon or silk.

And an abbreviated history:

The creation of the super-short nightgown is attributed to the American lingerie designer Sylvia Pedlar, who produced them in 1942 in response to fabric shortages during World War II.  Although her designs became known as "babydolls", Pedlar disliked the name and did not use it... The name was popularized by the 1956 movie Baby Doll, starring Carroll Baker in the title role as a 19-year-old nymphet...

Babydolls became a prominent part of the "kinderwhore" look during the early-to-mid-1990s, due to the popularity of Riot Grrrl and grunge performers such as Courtney Love and Kat Bjelland.

I personally would have some doubts that it was fabric shortages that popularized this look, and "Kinderwhore" might be worth a separate post, but for now I'll focus on the Guardian article that drew my attention away from the war.

Online discourse [about pop stars wearing the style] immediately exploded, with many lodging accusations that she was dressing like a “sexy baby” and promoting “pedo core”, while others defended the singer, stating that she can wear whatever she wants. Among those defenders was Ertay Deger, co-founder of brand Generation78, who told the Guardian: “the babydoll silhouette was never conceived as infantilising. For us, it sits within a long history of fashion references tied to rebellion, performance, romance, and girlhood culture. The look felt knowingly performative rather than regressive”...

Rodrigo isn’t the only pop star embracing the baby doll aesthetic right now. Sabrina Carpenter has worn a sheer version, leaning towards a retro-lingerie aesthetic; Addison Rae posed coyly in an understated, plain white minidress on her Instagram – then there’s gen Z’s favourite indie-sleaze icon Alexa Chung who has worn these dresses for years...

So why all the fuss? Gen Z has often been characterised as notably puritanical compared to other generations. Indeed, we live in an era when the exposed horrors of child sexual exploitation are at the forefront of public consciousness. But this wave of outrage towards a perceived sartorial perversion is arguably a projection that serves to police the status quo of young women’s fashion, rather than a mark of genuine concern. 

You can also read more at Vogue Arabia:

Short, swingy, and deceptively playful, the babydoll dress is suddenly everywhere – from stadium stages to street style feeds. This isn’t just a trend. It’s a shift, and it’s unfolding in real time.... So why this dress, and why now?

According to Nyree Leckenby, founder of My Mum Made It, the label behind Rodrigo’s viral yellow look, the appeal is all about balance. “Babydoll dresses embody the ease and effortlessness we crave in summer,” she says. “The breezy silhouette keeps things light in the heat while still feeling styled and considered. From a design perspective, they strike the perfect mix of comfort and nostalgia without trying too hard. Celebrities love them because they photograph beautifully and carry a sense of romantic ease that still feels fashion–forward and unique.”

The babydoll’s comeback has been bubbling for a while, but Spring/Summer 2025 made it official. Designers like Chloé, Loewe, Valentino, Emilia Wickstead, and Alberta Ferretti sent it down runways with fresh structure and quiet drama.

More photos and design suggestions at the Vogue Arabia link.