05 January 2011

An unusual cemetery in northern Iran

Three shrines and hundreds of tombstones left by an unknown people -
The cemetery lays in the northern part of Golestan province, in the mountains of Torkaman Sahra (Turkmen Desert) near the border with Turkmenistan... The holy place encompasses actually not one but three shrines, revered by local tradition as the tombs of the prophet Khaled Baba, his father-in-law Alaam Baba and his shepherd Chupan Ata...

Prophet Khaled himself is claimed in the legend hanging on the wall of the sanctuary to have been born in Yemen, his father was called Sanan, and he died here in 528, that is 42 years before the birth of Mohamed and 82 years before the beginning of Mohamed’s prophetic mission. The obvious question concerning the faith of which he was a prophet eighty-two years before the very foundation of Islam, is not raised in the legend. However, it is very probable that he was a Nestorian Christian, one of those who in this period migrated in a growing number to the north-eastern regions of the Persian empire, and from there further to China along the Silk Road...

In the cemetery laying a few hundred meters from the shrines around six hundred tombstones have been preserved. The stones are basically two kinds: either long columns ending in round hats which are sometimes two meters high or more, or smaller, squat grave posts similar to a cross where the two arms of the cross are replaced by two semi-circles or almost complete circles...

...if we project these places on the map, we see that almost all of them lay north of the majestic Gorgan Wall, built several centuries before Christ which, stretching from the Caspian Sea to the Afghan mountains, defended Iran from the attack of the northern tribes (and which was first excavated by the Hungarian Aurel Stein in 1915). Perhaps these cemeteries belonged to such tribes of the steppe, which would also give an explanation for the lack of any settlement around them.
If this interests you, there is more information and about three dozen more photos at Poemas del rio Wang.  I'm also intrigued by the reference to the Great Wall of Gorgan, the second longest in the world.  I have walked on the Great Wall of China and Hadrian's Wall and visited the Berlin Wall, but have never even heard of this one.  You learn something every day.

6 comments:

  1. I was wondering if I was the only one thinking that...

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  2. It seems more than a passing coincidence.

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    ReplyDelete
  3. "You learn something every day"... It appears you learned 2 things today!

    ReplyDelete
  4. You referred us to Poemas del rio Wang (/snicker).
    Sarah Cox (wish I was kidding)
    PS I'm not really 12 years old, I just didn't outgrow that phase...

    ReplyDelete
  5. After you're done giggling, do try visiting the site - it's one of the most interesting blogs in Europe in my view.

    ReplyDelete

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